A spontaneous trip to Jianshui Ancient Town led me to a garden-style boutique stay with unbeatable value

Who would have thought! This spontaneous trip to Jianshui really packed surprises at every stop! I had long craved the charm of Jianshui Ancient Town, so on the day of departure, I just grabbed my luggage and rushed off! The accommodation I chose was spot on — Jianshui Suqiu Wabi-Sabi Guesthouse near the West Gate of the ancient town. The location is unbeatable, right at the doorstep of the ancient streets and alleys. When tired from wandering, you can just lift your feet and head back, saving tons of travel time. The guesthouse is so clean it’s comforting, with thoughtful details everywhere. The common area not only has a fridge and microwave for storing and heating food but also thoughtfully provides small items like earplugs and umbrellas, so you don’t have to worry about unexpected situations, making the stay both worry-free and reassuring. The first scenic spot has to be Chaoyang Tower, whose grandeur is impressive from afar. On the more than eight-meter-high city wall, forty-eight massive pillars firmly support the triple-eaved roof. The large plaque on the front with the regular script “Xiong Zhen Dong Nan” (Mighty Guard of the Southeast) is eye-catching. The old artifact from the Qianlong era truly carries weight, while the wild cursive script “Fei Xia Liu Yun” (Flying Clouds and Flowing Mist) on the back exudes a sense of elegance. Standing under the tower, I couldn’t help but recall the solemnity of Tiananmen. When the wind blows, the copper bells jingle, and looking at the plaque through the branches adds a playful touch. Wandering around, my mood brightened. Strolling through the ancient town is so healing! The branches weave a natural “sunshade,” and the sunlight filtering through warms you up. The street shops have everything, but what caught me most was a jar of honey-like stirred sugar candy. Watching kids stir and eat it with chopsticks was so cute I wanted to buy some too. Then there are the myriad pastries, sweet and rich but increasingly addictive, completely irresistible. The second stop was Zhu Family Garden, truly living up to its nickname “Grand View Garden of Southern Yunnan”! The Zhu family spent nearly thirty years building it in the late Qing Dynasty. Covering more than 20,000 square meters, with 42 courtyards and 214 rooms, walking inside feels like navigating a maze, always finding new paths. The courtyards named after “Plum, Orchid, Bamboo, and Chrysanthemum” each have their own charm. I took many photos of the carved screen door in the Bamboo Garden inscribed with “Wu Fu Lin Men” (Five Blessings Arrive at the Door), hoping to catch some good luck. There were also young ladies in Hanfu walking back and forth, plus NPC silver note interactions, making me feel like I had traveled back to ancient times. The back garden’s lake, rockery, and white ducks were so pleasant. Watching a young lady take photos on the stage, I could almost hear the singing, imagining the Zhu family watching operas back then. The Lin’an Prefecture Office holds so many little-known facts! During the 529 years of the Ming and Qing dynasties, 184 prefects were replaced, all from other regions, which explains the Jiangnan flavor in Jianshui’s architecture. The “Light Ink Top Scholar” Wang Wenzhi from the Qianlong era is a big favorite. His poems and writings as prefect are like a “life atlas” of Qing Dynasty Lin’an. By chance, I caught a scheduled performance; the lion dance in front of the Zhong’ai Hall was amazing, vividly portraying a drunken lion. At the end, the lion climbed the pole and unfurled a banner of good fortune, earning nonstop applause. The once solemn government office is now so lively — this must be what a prosperous era looks like! The final stop was rushing to Shuanglong Bridge, locally called the “Seventeen-Arch Bridge,” and the name is well deserved. Built with three arches during the Qianlong era and extended with fourteen more during the Daoguang era, the bridge forms a seamless whole. The flying-eave pavilion in the middle is the finishing touch. Walking around the river and stepping onto the stone bridge marked with weathered traces, watching the blue sky and white clouds reflected on the lake and the passersby, I suddenly felt this ancient bridge has witnessed so many changes over the years — it’s full of stories.